Kenya is often called the “Home of the Safari”. And yet, there is so much more to explore in this beautiful East African country than national parks. In this blog, we will tell you where to go in Kenya, sharing with you our secret spots and insider information. Through the eyes of locals, discover Kenya’s rich wildlife, its beautiful beaches, Lamu Island, Mt Elgon’s Kitum Cave, and our favourite game viewing spots.
1.Watamu and the Gede Ruins: Beaches and Italian ice cream
The small fishing village of Watamu is situated on Kenya’s north coast. Watamu lies north of Mombasa and is lined with white, tropical beaches and hotels dedicated to eco-tourism. Overlooking the Indian Ocean, this laid-back town is a popular beach spot. With its own marine national park and enormous coral reef, it is also great for snorkelling and scuba-diving.
Charter a boat to get to the Malindi Marine Reserve Park and go on a water safari to experience the abundant fish life and sea turtles that nest near to the reef. The shallow warm waters of the mangroves attract a myriad of birds. Watamu is also the place to visit if you are a water sports enthusiast: You can do stand-up paddling, kite surfing and deep-sea fishing here.
If you don’t just want to hang out at the beach, we know where to go: The Gede Ruins, right outside Watamu, are an abandoned 12th century Swahili village. This mysterious medieval settlement used to be a cosmopolitan urban setting. It was a very advanced city with streets, flushing toilets and running water. It is remarkable proof of Africa’s early development.
Where to eat: Watamu, like much of the coast north of Mombasa, is popular with Italians. Enjoy home-made ice cream at Bahati Gelateria Italianna and the best pizza at Amici Miei.
2.The “Great Migration” and the crossing of the Mara River
When thinking about where to go in Kenya, the Masai Mara Game Reserve often features top of the list. The annual “Great Migration”, during which millions of wildebeest, gazelle and zebras follow a migratory route from Tanzania to Kenya in search of fresh grass, is probably one of the most fascinating wildlife spectacles in the world. On the northern part of their route lies the Mara River. Mara is a rather small river, about 40 metres wide and filled with muddy, brown water. The river flows through the northern Serengeti from Kenya’s Masai Mara Game Reserve.
But during the collective journey of the “Great Migration”, the Mara River comes to life. Watching herds of wildebeest trying to cross the river is a real thriller – many don’t make it to the other side alive. Crocodiles are lurking in the waters, and other predators such as big cats lie in wait for the herds of wildebeest. Another real threat for the migrating animals is drowning in the raging currents. Yet, this life and death spectacle serves another purpose than having a bunch of crocodiles feasting: Indeed, the carcasses of the thousands of wildebeest, that die during the annual migration, are an important contribution to the river’s ecosystem.
However, please be prepared: The Mara River is not necessarily an insider tip anymore and the chances of actually seeing a crossing are relatively small. Also, expect to be surrounded by many other travellers. And don’t expect to just rock up at the river and see enormous animal herds crossing. As a matter of fact, witnessing a river crossing requires a lot of luck.
We recommend visiting the Masai Mara in the shoulder season from January until March. Then, accommodations are cheaper, and you will still see a lot of animals, without having to share sightings with plenty of other vehicles. During shoulder season, you will have a much nicer experience and be able to take a proper break from the rest of the world.
Did you know: The “Great Migration” has been observed to be pushed back to the later months in the year. As the weather isn’t that predictable anymore, you might still be able to experience the annual journey in the Masai Mara after September.
3.Kenya’s capital, Nairobi: Giraffes and forests
Kenya’s capital Nairobi is East Africa’s most cosmopolitan city. Named after a Masai watering hole “enkare nyarobi”, which means “place of cool waters”, the city is known for its leafy parks. Like in any modern city, Nairobi has skyscrapers that form a beautiful skyline. It is also the only city in the world with a national park on its doorstep.
In Nairobi, you find some quirky attractions. In 1979, the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife founded a Giraffe Centre to preserve the Rothschild giraffe. These beautiful animals have gone extinct in the Democratic Republic of Congo and Sudan and can nowadays only be found in Kenya and Uganda.
Now, you can stay in a luxurious 10-room hotel called “Giraffe Manor” in the middle of the giraffe breeding grounds and share your breakfast with them: The giraffes are free to roam around in the area of the Giraffe Centre. They often stick their heads into the hotel windows to say hello to the guests.
Another fun thing to do in Nairobi is to visit the Karen Blixen museum. This old farmhouse was once the centrepiece of a farm at the foot of the Ngong Hills owned by Danish author Karen and her Swedish husband, Baron Bror von Blixen Fincke. The house served as the setting for her popular book “Out of Africa” and was later transformed into a museum.
One of Nairobi’s leafy parks, the Karura forest reserve, is located in the north of Nairobi. Karura is one of the largest urban forests in the world. It makes for a beautiful stroll if you feel like getting out of the city.
When in Nairobi: Why not go on a day trip with us, to several destinations, including the Nairobi National Park.
4.Where to go in Kenya? Lamu Island: Kenya’s oldest town is full of donkeys
Lamu Island is located on the northern coast of Kenya, northern from Watamu. Lamu Town on Lamu Island is Kenya’s oldest town. It has largely remained unchanged in the more than 700 years this settlement has existed. The narrow streets in Lamu make it impossible to travel around the island by car, which is why the culture of Lamu revolves around donkeys. Donkeys are part of almost every household. They carry their owners, goods and even construction materials. Owning a donkey is like owning a small car and a truck in one. And the donkeys are much loved for the work they do.
Lamu Town is full of donkeys until today. The Swahili people maintained their traditional ways of logistics and shipping. And the best way to experience Lamu Island is on a donkey’s back. From here you can explore the town’s beautiful Swahili architecture, which is a fusion of Middle Eastern, South Asian and East African styles.
Photo: Peponi Lamu
If you have seen enough donkeys and architecture, we know where to go: Lamu Island has beautiful, kilometre-long isolated beaches with white sand and clear water. Our favourite is Shela beach just next to Lamu town. As there are no cars on the island, you can take a donkey or boat to get there.
Photo: Peponi Lamu
But Lamu is facing a big challenge: The illegal slaughter and theft of donkeys are a substantial threat for rural households all over Kenya that cannot afford motorised transport and use them for transport and for daily tasks such as fetching water or firewood. Donkey meat is being exported to China, where donkey skin is used as a traditional Chinese medicine for so-called “ejiao” products. In 2020, the Kenyan government banned the commercial slaughter of donkeys and exports to China.
Did you know: Most people on Lamu Island are Muslim, and only a few hotels sell alcohol.
5.Mt Elgon National Park: The Kitum Cave
Half Uganda, half Kenya, the Mount Elgon National Park’s location in the far west of Kenya makes it lesser frequented than the Mount Kenya National Park. An extinct volcano just like Mt Kenya, Mt Elgon offers similar trekking opportunities while the lower altitude means conditions are not as extreme. The mountain’s biggest attraction is its elephants that can be found licking salt in the caves on the eastern slopes. These caves were formed by lava tubes. There are quite a few caves on Mt Elgon, but the Kitum Cave is by far the most popular. This giant salt lick is regularly visited by herds of elephants as well as antelopes and buffaloes. Using their trunks, the elephants pull out chunks of the cave walls, crush them and lick up the salt. Over time, this has tremendously increased the cave’s size, and left many tusk marks.
Photo: Nina R
Mt Elgon National Park offers plenty of opportunities for hikes. The mountain has distinct vegetation zones: There is rainforest at the base, and you will find bamboo jungle leading up to heath and moorland zones. Besides the unique flora and fauna, there are waterfalls, scenic gorges and peaks and hot springs with water up to 48° C warm. With a bit of luck, you might be able to spot the Black and White Colobus Monkey, the Blue Monkey, baboons and hundreds of birds’ species. It definitely is a hidden gem when considering where to go in Kenya.
Did you know: When the Kitum Cave was first discovered, it was assumed that the many marks on the wall came from Egyptians looking for diamonds or gold.
6.Mount Kenya & Central Highlands: Game viewing away from the crowds
Mt Kenya is Africa’s second-highest peak and sacred to the Kikuyu people. Mount Kenya together with the Aberdares comprises The Central Highlands, which is the geographic heartland of the country. For some time, The Highlands were known as the “White Highlands”. During that time, almost all of the country’s most fertile land was owned by colonial settlers who established profitable farms here. The Central Highlands are also central to Kenyan history. This is where anti-colonial resistance started, which resulted in the Mau Mau Rebellion, that ultimately set the stage for Kenya’s independence.
Set against the backdrop of Mt Kenya’s snow-capped peak, is the Laikipia plateau that is spotted with a handful of private conservancies. This region makes for some great wildlife viewing opportunities away from the crowds and should be on your top list of where to go in Kenya. It is one of the regions where you can see the very rare African wild dogs. It is also home to other endangered species such as half of the country’s black rhinos and half of the world’s Grevy’s zebras.
Only minutes from the equator in the Mt Kenya National Park, you find elephants, monkeys, buffaloes, forest hogs and antelopes living in the forests here. Travellers who are quite fit can climb Point Lenana. The other two peaks can only be summited by technically experienced mountaineers.
Did you know: The town of Nanyuki marks the border between the northern and the southern hemisphere – you have now crossed the equator.
7.Where to go in Kenya? Samburu National Reserve: Our favourite safari spot
North of Mt Kenya, you will find the Samburu National Reserve. This reserve lies in one of the drier areas of Kenya, thus, you find plants and animals here that you don’t find anywhere else in the country. In this arid area, the Ewaso Ngiro river attracts plenty of wildlife, making this the perfect spot for game drives. The river is home to crocodiles, hippos, white elephants and buffaloes. In the park, you will find Somali giraffes and ostriches, Beisa oryxes, Grevy’s zebras and gerenuks, that are also known as “giraffe-necked antelopes”. These funny-looking antelopes have adapted to the conditions by growing a long neck which enables them to browse higher bushes for food.
Samburu, Shaba and Buffalo Springs form one ecological unit. The nature reserves are not separated by fences so that the wild animals here can roam around freely. For some unfathomable reason, you will hardly ever see other vehicles in the Samburu National Reserve. Like many of the northerly parks, Samburu is not yet well-known, which gives you the chance to have an exclusive safari experience in this spectacular scenery and discover unique wildlife in a rather private setting.
Did you know: Because we know where to go, we from Kenya-Experience offer a tour to the northern parks. Leave the rest of the world behinds and see one of the most astonishing areas of the country.
Get in touch to plan your individual safari to Kenya!
