Tsavo East National Park

A bounty of birdlife, terracotta-coloured elephants, and maneless lions with a stare that leaves no doubt about their hungry intentions are some of the many highlights of a safari into the ancient landscape of Kenya’s largest national park, Tasvo East National Park.

Cave paintings along the snaking Galana River reveal that people lived in harmony with nature as far back as the Stone Age.

Still, the Yatta Plateau, the world’s longest lava flow at 290km and situated on the western boundary, is an ever-present reminder of how ancient this prehistoric wilderness is.

The history of Tsavo East National Park

The first visitors were coastal traders believed to have traded skins, enslaved people, and ivory as early as 700 AD. Unfortunately, humanity’s insatiable desire for ivory would devastate the elephant population in years to come.

In the 19th century, European explorers arrived in Kenya and, in 1898, began constructing a railway to connect the country’s interior with the coast. However, near Voi, two male lions began killing dozens of railway workers.

These two man-eating lions of Tsavo were named “The Ghost and the Darkness”, which inspired the movie of the same name.

In 1948, the region was officially established as Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Park, spanning more than 20,000 km² and separated by the Nairobi-Mombasa Road and Railway.

What is special about elephants in Tsavo East National Park?

Tsavo East National Park spans an area of 13,747 km². David Sheldrick established it as a sanctuary for wildlife and tourism. Today, the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust continues his legacy by operating multiple inspiring conservation projects in Kenya.

Two of these include an elephant orphanage in Nairobi National Park and the Voi and Ithumba reintegration units in Tsavo East, which reintroduce mature orphaned elephants into the wild.

Fascinatingly, Tsavo’s elephants have an ochre tinge. This colouration is acquired from the iron oxide-rich laterite soil, which they dust on their skin to protect themselves from parasites and sun exposure.

Thankfully, spotting elephants is frequent, owing to an elephant population of ~12,500.

Incredibly, this number was ~35,000 in the 1970s. However, intense poaching had a devastating impact and by the 1980s, the population plummeted by a heartbreaking 75%.

The park’s flora and fauna

At the same time, the northern part of the park became too dangerous to enter. Since then, elephant numbers have increased.

Additionally, the previously insecure northern area is wilder and less developed, serving as a reminder of the dark period in the park’s history.

Keen observers will notice that the vegetation of the semi-arid grasslands is denser in the west. This is caused by higher rainfall in the west (450 mm) compared to the east (250 mm).

Fans of Black Rhinos will also note that the acacia-commiphora woodland is an ideal habitat for these brush-grazing animals.

Unsurprisingly, there was once a thriving rhino population. Sadly, for multiple reasons, they were almost wiped out. In 2018, a reintroduction project aimed at improving the situation was tragically unsuccessful.

As a result, it is challenging to see a rhino in Tsavo East.

If you explore the park’s waterways, you’ll have a great chance to spot some fantastic wildlife.

These include the Galana, Tiva, and Voi Rivers, the Kanderi swamp, the Aruba dam, and the waterhole at the base of Mudanda Rock.

Which animals can you see in Tsavo East National Park?

During the dry season, from June to October, they become even better places to see elephants, buffalos, lions, leopards, cheetahs, hippos, and over ~500 bird species.

On a visit to ‘Crocodile Point’ near Lugard’s Falls on the Galana River you can see numerous crocodiles.

Wildlife highlights include Somali Ostrich, Gerenuk, Fringe-eared Oryx, Maasai Giraffe, Lesser Kudu and Hunter’s Hartebeest.

The latter, also known as the Hirola, is the most endangered antelope in the world and is predominately found near the Somali border.

The once healthy population of 15,000 hirola has dwindled to only 500 individuals left in the wild. Thanks to the relocation of 30 Hirolas to Tsavo in the 1960s, visitors now have the opportunity to see some of the park’s ~75 Hirolas.

Tsavo East National Park’s connection to Tsavo West National Park and Mkomazi National Park in Tanzania allows ancient migration routes from north to south to continue to exist today.

As new protected areas are established around the park, it brings hope for the future of East Africa’s wildlife and people.